where to dine in Olympia: Southern Kitchen

Update, 2008: Southern Kitchen is no longer open, having been replaced by Ranch House BBQ, which moved over when its original location was destroyed by a wall of mud. Ranch House, it should be noted, is a fine restaurant, some of the best barbecue in the region.


A colleague described Southern Kitchen, the new offshoot of its acclaimed Tacoma progenitor, as the best Southern restaurant in the state. This evening my wife and I decided to test its offerings. We were two rain-soaked Washingtonians in search of hearty cuisine.

Settling on two dishes wasn't easy--but then, little that's rewarding is easy. My wife's Cajun catfish strips were peppery with only a little of the swamp taste common to the bottom-feeding siluriform. Two pieces of fried chicken left comfortable amounts of grease on my fingers, the skin peeling nicely off the meat, the meat peeling cleanly off the bone.

We sampled each other's sides. I opted for sweet buttered corn, red beans, and cornbread dressing, a three-inch square drenched in gravy. My wife, polishing off her dressing, ended up taking home extra mac 'n' cheese and candied yams, both of which she pronounced "yumbly."

Our server was friendly and efficient (though, oddly, she seemed a bit overeager to give us a box for our extras, even though I was still elbow-deep in chicken bones).

The restaurant's hues are warm, burnt sienna and mustard, its decor sparing, unsurprising given its recency and its location in the downtown Ramada. The owner is friendly, welcoming patrons and taking the chance to visit when time allows. Prices are reasonable, averaging around $10 per entree, many including a choice of three sides and a cornbread pancake.

I declare the cornbread dressing to be the best side dish in Olympia. In fact, next time we dine at Southern Kitchen, I'm going to order a plateful and stuff myself with it, gravy and all.


The author is an unpaid blogger. He easily remains anonymous because no one knows who he is.

(added)

The restaurant is open Sunday-Thursday, 7am to 9pm, Friday-Saturday, 7am-10pm. Breakfast served all day.

621 S Capitol Way, in the Ramada Governor House, across from Sylvester Park.
phone: (360) 943-8300

Update: On Saturday, April 22, my wife and I were treated to lunch by my parents. A few observations on the differences in this second visit:

1. The floor was littered with breakfast's debris. There's no excuse for that.
2. The corncakes came right with the meal, so there was no time to savor them before trying to delve into the lunch offerings.
3. Cornbread dressing has to be served hot, because it cools quickly. My mom's came out cold; mine was lukewarm.

All in all, though, the food is fantastic, the service dependable, and the belly filled with goodness at the end of the meal. Southern Kitchen hasn't yet reached perfection, but once a few inelegances are ironed out, it'll be much like Ricardo's, the sort of restaurant you drag your friends to when you want to show off the best of South Sound cuisine.